Edinburgh, Scotland, is a city unlike any other. The country’s hilly capital city, situated on a series of extinct volcanoes, is brimming with history. As a first-time visitor to the city, you immediately feel like you’re being pulled into another time. It’s hard not to be drawn in. Cobbled alleyways (closes), old town history, gothic architecture, famous Royal Mile, Georgian homes, royal and official residences, medieval features, and centuries-old cemeteries are everywhere you turn.

Like any popular travel destination these days, it does face some of the downsides of tourism. Don’t let that scare you off – Edinburgh remains a city I enjoy. So much so that I’ve even been there twice. Yet, if I were to visit again, there are still plenty of things that I’d like to see.

Each time I visited, I spent about 2.5 days in the city and I think around three days is a good amount of time to start with. Many people like to explore Edinburgh before moving on to other parts of beautiful Scotland. Want to experience Edinburgh’s charm for yourself but aren’t sure what’s worth your while? I’ll tell you everything I learned in my two trips to the moody Scottish capital.

Do the Old Town Sights Live Up to the Hype?

When you think of Edinburgh, I’d bet that Old Town Sights are some of the first that pop into your mind. You can’t talk about Edinburgh without mentioning the famous Royal Mile, complete with Edinburgh Castle at its helm. Old Town is simply a must, but some sights aren’t for everyone, so which ones live up to their hype?

The Royal Mile

A trip to Edinburgh is not complete without walking the Royal Mile (actually around 1.13 miles, to be exact). The Royal Mile is the backbone of Old Town, with Holyrood Palace resting at the bottom and Edinburgh Castle sitting at the top. Historically, it was a processional path for royalty. Today, the cobbled street is home to medieval buildings, shops, pubs, restaurants, and the sound of bagpipes drifting down from street performers.

I do think it’s worth taking a stroll along the Royal Mile. However, remember that while it’s a great experience, it is also a popular tourist spot. The many tourist shops along the mile can distract from its charm. The history and architecture here is absolutely breathtaking. With a limit on those kinds of shops, it would be much more incredible to experience. The crowds are similar to any popular destination, but I did notice an increase in 2025 compared to 2022.

The good news? Everything closes up shop pretty early. So, if you’d like to explore quieter streets and take it all in, the Royal Mile regains some of its charm in the early mornings and evenings without the crowds. The tourist shops are still housed in historic buildings, there are still plenty of closes to wander down, and the history is still there under the souvenirs.

Edinburgh Castle

Edinburgh Castle is the iconic castle that looms over Edinburgh from its perch on Castle Rock at the end of the Royal Mile. The castle has been used as a royal residence, military fortress, national archive, treasury, and prison. Now it houses the Scottish Crown Jewels, the Scottish National War Museum, and is an active Army base. It is also headquarters for the Royal Regiment of Scotland. In August, it hosts one of Edinburgh’s most popular events: the Edinburgh Military Tattoo, a spectacle attended by hundreds of thousands.

I’d recommend visiting the castle at least once, as it’s an iconic part of Edinburgh and its history. However, if you’re looking for a full castle effect, you won’t find it here. If you’re interested in history or a military buff, you will enjoy the castle’s museums, but they are in smaller spaces, and you might find it hard to take your time reading all the information during the peak season.

Avoid The Crowds for the Best Experience

I’d recommend visiting early in the day or later in the afternoon when people are starting to thin out. The first time I visited, my husband and I were able to look at everything at a leisurely pace. The second time, it was harder to linger, as we came right at the peak of the afternoon hours. I’m sure the weather played a role, too; on the second visit, it was a rainy day, so more people went to the indoor sections to stay dry.

The One O’Clock Gun was a fascinating demonstration that occurs every day except on Sundays. If you want to see the Crown Jewels, there WILL be a line, but don’t be intimidated by it; it moves rather quickly.

Worth the visit? It depends. If you have plenty of time in Edinburgh, I would fit in the castle. If you’re short on time, however, have other castles in Scotland on your agenda (like Stirling), and aren’t particularly a history or military buff, I’d skip it for another time. You can always take in the iconic castle view from Prince’s Street Gardens or the Vennel Viewpoint.

Holyrood Palace

At the bottom of the Royal Mile, you’ll find Holyrood Palace. Holyrood is the official residence of the UK monarch in Scotland and has served as a royal residence since the 16th century. I’d read mixed reviews about visiting the Palace. However, as someone very interested in the Royal family and history, I had to go and see for myself.

Upon arrival with a standard admission ticket, you are given a set of headphones and a handheld audio/visual guide to follow at your own pace. This was great for our large group because we were able to spread out and take our time at the spots we were each individually interested in. When visiting, you have access to several Staterooms, the Great Gallery, Mary Queen of Scots’ Chambers, the Throne Room, and the Royal Dining Room. You are also welcome to walk through Holyrood Abbey and the Gardens.

If you’re a royalist, anglophile, lover of stately homes, interested in art or architecture, or a history buff, I believe you’d enjoy a visit to Holyrood Palace. I enjoyed my time there and loved seeing the different rooms, wandering the abbey and gardens, all while hearing the stories along the way through the audio guide. It was a perfect way for all of us to experience something at our own speed. Even my 12-year-old boy did better than expected, interacting with the activities on the handheld guide as he went through each room.

St. Giles Cathedral

St. Giles Cathedral is one of three cathedrals in Edinburgh and sits about halfway along the Royal Mile. The church was founded in the 12th century and has been active for over 900 years.

On one of my visits, we went inside the cathedral to look around. We are not religious by any means, but there’s always something special about these old churches and their architecture that draws us in. St. Giles has stunning stained glass, Victorian windows, and vaulted ceilings, which make it worth popping in for a small donation.

If you don’t have much time, it’s just as beautiful on the outside. It’s also hard to miss while taking a stroll down the Royal Mile!

Witchery by the Castle

The Witchery is a luxury hotel and restaurant in Edinburgh, located just steps away from the entrance to Edinburgh Castle. It is known for its opulent Gothic interior and moody setting. We did not stay in the hotel or dine on the regular dinner menu. Instead, we visited for the Afternoon Tea option.

When coming for Afternoon Tea, you can choose to sit in one of two dining areas: The Original Dining Room or the Secret Garden. We chose the Secret Garden, which is lighter and has a more romantic feel akin to a conservatory. I wish I could have tried out both dining areas.

The Afternoon Tea at Witchery features an array of teas paired with sweet and savory treats. It is served between 3 and 4 pm on Monday – Friday, and a reservation is needed. I have heard many people say this was not worth the hype, but I personally thought it was an enjoyable afternoon. The vibe of the dining areas, paired with the delicious bites, was a wonderful combination. I could eat my weight in scones and the soft, buttery bread featured in one of their sandwiches.

It is a bit steep at 50GBP a person. I’m sure there are many amazing afternoon teas to be found in the area (please give me recommendations), but you’re also paying for the experience curated by the Witchery. For this alone, I’d say it’s worth popping in at least once if you’re interested.

Mary King’s Close

I went back and forth about visiting Mary King’s Close. Many said it was a cheesy tourist trap and not worth your time. I wanted to see it, regardless of theatrics, so I decided to form my own opinion rather than listening to internet naysayers.

Mary King’s Close is a network of preserved 17th-century streets and residential housing tucked below the Royal Mile. This is one of those places you wouldn’t know existed right beneath your feet.

The tour lasts an hour. You are led by a guide in costume matching the time period to help set the mood. The tour walks you through the different rooms, exploring what it would have been like to live here, the different characters known to reside in the close, and life during the deadly plague. I’m sure it varies by tour guide, but I didn’t find our tour cheesy at all. The stories and history were fascinating. Being in the underground setting added another layer of intrigue to what you were hearing.

Another thing I liked about this tour is that I felt like it had something for everyone. While it had some dark subject matter, it had enough theatrics and visual settings to entertain a younger audience. It also provided a lot of information and stories for those who were more into the history, making it ideal for families. I’m glad I didn’t listen to everything I read online, because I enjoyed the tour. I’d recommend you come check it out for yourself!

Museum of Edinburgh

The Museum of Edinburgh is a free museum located on the Royal Mile. It is a small museum in a historic building that details the city’s past. On our first trip to the city, we popped into the museum after stumbling upon it on the Royal Mile. It’s impossible to miss with its bright yellow and red facade. The museum only takes about an hour to walk through, and it’s free.

It houses examples of Scottish craftsmanship, a trove of historical items, and rotating exhibitions. The building itself is the historic Huntly House, dating back to the 16th Century. My husband and I love historic homes, so this feature alone is enough to hold our interest.

Camera Obscura

I did not visit Camera Obscura myself, but my husband and son opted in on this activity while we were doing another activity. There are locations all over the world. This one sits right at the foot of Edinburgh Castle on Castlehill, across from the Witchery.

Camera Obscura is a 5-Story attraction with interactive exhibits of illusions. If you have kids who may want a break from the history (I know mine did, especially being older), this is the place to have some fun. The boys seemed to have a good time goofing off in all the different exhibits and taking photos.

The Views are Worth the Climb

I’m a sucker for a good view, and when I’m traveling, chances are I WILL seek one out. Lucky for me, Edinburgh has options to view the city from a different perspective. Depending on how hard you’d like to work for the view, there’s something for varying fitness levels to choose from.

Arthur’s Seat

Found in Holyrood Park, Arthur’s Seat is an extinct volcano that offers panoramic views of Edinburgh. It’s the hilly city’s highest peak, and its presence is hard to miss. If you’ve watched or read One Day, then you’ve certainly heard about it. From the moment I saw it on my first visit, I knew I wanted to climb it; however, we ended up being short on time. (AND my body was already beat coming off of my adventure on the West Highland Way). I vowed I would do it the next time I was in the city.

And so I did! On my second visit, my mom, sister, and I set out to tackle the 350-million-year-old volcano. There are several routes to reach the top, at varying levels of difficulty. Expect it to take around 1.5 to 2 hours. I’ll be honest: I’m not even sure which route we took because I have no idea where our Uber driver dropped us off, but I believe we took the shorter, steeper route alongside Dunsapie Loch.

In typical Scottish fashion, it was a nice day when we set out, although a little chilly. The sun was shining…I’m sure you can guess where this story will end. When we got close to the summit of Arthur’s Seat, my mom tapped out and decided to wait for us down the path (she is not a fan of heights). This must have been intuition on her part, because the second my sister and I neared the top, it became your stereotypical rainy and windy day in Scotland!

We Didn’t Get Much of a View That Day…

And let me tell you, the wind was intense. So much so that we had to make our way behind some rocks to block the brunt of it until the downpour died down. There is no clear path to this section of Arthur’s Seat. It is more of a scramble, making it a bit precarious in high winds on the slippery rocks.

Needless to say, we didn’t have the most visible experience on the summit of Arthur’s Seat, but it was still a memorable one. Did the sun come up the second we scrambled back down to where our Mom waited? Yep, but that’s Scotland for you. I’d love to try it again someday on the longer route up, perhaps with better luck on the view.

If you’re a decent hiker, love tackling a summit, or would love to see Edinburgh from another viewpoint, I’d recommend giving Arthur’s Seat a go. There are plenty of options to make your way up to the top. If heights aren’t your thing, you don’t have to go all the way to have a good time.

Pro Tip: If the ice cream truck is at the foot of Arthur’s Seat, get yourself some; you won’t regret it.

Calton Hill

If you want a nice view but less of a hike, or have time constraints, Calton Hill is another great option to see the city from above. Calton Hill is one of the country’s first public parks and is sometimes called the “Athens of the North” for its Greek-inspired monuments and architecture. It is also said to be the birthplace of timekeeping and Astronomy in Edinburgh. Want to read about adventures in the real Athens? Check out how we spent 24 hours there in 2023.

The walk up is simple and paved, taking no more than a few minutes to reach the grassy hilltop. Calton Hill’s most prominent feature is the National Monument, based on the Parthenon in Greece. You’ll also find the Nelson Monument, the Dugald Stewart, the Playfair Monument, and the old City Observatory.

We visited for the sunset and found plenty of people lounging about on the hillside. Without being a strenuous climb, it offered views of the city all around. It was also an amazing place to hang out and watch the sun go down.

Off the Beaten Path

Some spots in Edinburgh are more off the beaten path, either by distance or just more unusual. When traveling, I’ll always recommend venturing out of the usual tourist areas or wandering into unexpected places.

Dean Village

When you watch any Edinburgh content, chances are you’ll stumble upon the picturesque Dean Village. Dean Village is a former milling settlement to the west of the city center known for its historic charm, peaceful riverside, and cobbled streets.

It’s a little out of the way from the usual tourist spots, though I’m sure it can be a popular site during the busy part of the day. We visited in the evening, and it felt like we almost had the place to ourselves.

If you’re looking for a lot of activities, Dean Village might not be the place for you. However, if you’re looking for a unique place that feels a bit like stepping back in time, it’s a great place to take some photos or walk along the riverside. We spent a good chunk of time there wandering about since there weren’t many people around.

Old Calton Burial Ground

On our first visit to Edinburgh, we stumbled upon Old Calton Burial Ground after watching the sunset on Calton Hill. One fun thing about me is that I’ll never pass up a cemetery or graveyard, especially an old one. I love looking at the ornate headstones, statues, and tombs while imagining people’s stories. I also go on the hunt for someone with the same birthday as me.

This burial ground is found right across from Calton Hill and is one of several historic graveyards in the city.

New Calton Burial Ground

We also walked through the New Calton Burial Ground on our second trip to the city on our way to Holyrood Palace. This cemetery was made to re-bury exhumed bodies from the Old Calton burial ground after the construction of Waterloo Palace. The cemetery has a prominent watchtower and monument. If you’re walking that way anyway, it makes for an interesting detour down to the Royal Mile.

For the Fandoms

Due to its abundance of historical scenery, Edinburgh is known as the inspiration and filming backdrop for many popular fandoms; Harry Potter being a big one. It was said that JK Rowling wrote a lot of the first book in the city. We stumbled upon a few of these spots during our first visit.

Bakehouse Close

Outlander is probably the fandom Scotland has to thank the most for the uptick in tourism. I knew before visiting that I wanted to see if I could find the exterior of Jamie’s iconic print shop from the show. What I didn’t know was that I would stumble upon it completely by accident!

When we finished at the Museum of Edinburgh, my husband popped into the restroom. I decided to wait on a bench across the street. As I was sitting there looking around, I noticed Bakehouse Close right there beside the museum. I thought it sounded familiar, and eventually it clicked. The Print Shop!

When my husband returned, I excitedly informed him that we’d been RIGHT next to the print shop location this entire time. It was perfect timing, too, because no one else was there taking the classic photo on the “print shop” steps. It’s not much to see, and it doesn’t have anything indicating what it is if you don’t know yourself, but it’s great for a photo op if you’re a fan.

I also noticed Bakehouse Close was used when watching the new Frankenstein movie. This was being filmed the last time we visited.

The Department of Magic

Have you ever done an Escape Room by accident? We have! We booked at the Department of Magic, a Harry Potter-inspired tavern with a variety of immersive experiences, thinking we were doing the Magical Potions Cocktail experience. When we were led into a different room, we realized that was, in fact, not what we signed up for. We had to put our heads together and escape instead of the other kind of escapism we were planning on.

This was the first escape room we’d ever done, so I honestly can’t say how it compared. Since it was unexpected, I’m sure we looked like fish out of water to the person running it, but the rooms were interactive, and the magical theme of escaping a dark wizard was a lot of fun (even though he got us in the end).

Though we weren’t there long, the tavern had a warm and cozy feel, perfect for brewing up a potion cocktail. They also host afternoon teas, offering a magical experience for visitors of all kinds.

Victoria Street

Victoria Street is one of the most photographed streets in Edinburgh and inspired the setting of Harry Potter’s Diagon Alley. When walking down the winding lane, it’s easy to see why, with the picturesque storefronts and cobbled streets. Funnily enough, I apparently did not snap a photo of it to share.

Whether you’re a Harry Potter fan or not, you’ll enjoy a stroll down this street. If you are a fan, you’ll find a few Harry Potter-themed shops that are fun to visit, though lines can be long on busy days.

Experienced Budget and Nicer Accommodations

Whether you’re looking for a more budget-friendly option, something central, a delicious breakfast every morning, something more luxurious, or simply a place to rest your head, chances are you’ll find it in Edinburgh. During each of my stays in Edinburgh, I experienced two very different accommodation styles: a hostel and a 3-star hotel focused on traditional luxury.

CODE Hostel

CODE is a boutique hostel offering private rooms, capsule dorms, community spaces, and kitchens. There are two locations in Edinburgh: The Court and The Loft. We chose to stay at The Court on our very first stay in the city, as it’s located right on the Royal Mile in Old Town in Parliament Square. It was the perfect location for a first-time visitor.

The Court is housed in an old courthouse and jail building. We stayed in a private “sleep cell” that was once a jail cell in the Edinburgh Police Chambers. The room was small, with just a bed, but there was enough open space between the door and the bed to fit our luggage without overcrowding us.

We chose the option without an en-suite bathroom and had no issues. The community bathrooms were directly across the hall and had plenty of space. They were also well-decorated and incredibly clean! I think I only ran into another guest in the bathrooms once during our three-night stay.

I love staying in places with a unique vibe or story, so I enjoyed staying in the repurposed space. I’d both stay here again and recommend it! It was inexpensive, in a great location, and clean even in the shared spaces. It does seem to be a popular choice for travelers, though, so keep in mind that it books up fast.

Royal Scot’s Club Edinburgh

During our second stay, we switched things up and stayed over in New Town. We were traveling with a large group and booked at the Royal Scots Club Hotel. The hotel is on a lovely street lined with beautiful Georgian homes and features a variety of rooms with a traditional luxury feel. It also serves as a member’s club.

Our room was on the bottom floor of the main building. It was spacious, featuring two twin beds, a double bed, large windows overlooking the back of the building, and an en-suite bathroom. We quickly learned that the place was quite a maze, with other family members in rooms down a long hallway out the back of the building. All of the rooms were different, but the variety worked great for accommodating our unique family situations!

Breakfast in the mornings was served in the dining room. It featured a buffet of pastries, cereal, fruit, and juices as well as a hot a la carte meal at the table with coffee or tea. There were enough options to try something different every day if you wanted to, and the portions were generous. The hotel also offers a bar and lounge area at select hours.

Location-wise, it isn’t central, but it’s still close to everything. The hotel is about a 15-minute walk to the Royal Mile, but it’s very close to Prince’s Street shopping. There are pubs and grocery stores just a few minutes’ walk away.

Traveling with Young Children? Beware

The most recent time we traveled to Edinburgh, we had a 12-year-old and an 8-month-old in our group. This may not be an issue if you are from the UK, but in the United States, we’re used to infants being able to go pretty much anywhere. We discovered that it is not the case in Scotland.

There were several pubs and tours that the family with the infant was unable to do due to stricter regulations. For the pubs, we initially thought the regulations were alcohol-related and that it was strange a 12-year-old child would be let in, but not a baby. We later realized this was due to certain family-style bathrooms required on the premises. We eventually learned what to look out for, but it’s something to keep in mind if you’ll be traveling with young children to avoid frustration.

Does anyone more familiar with these regulations have any insight? I’m always intrigued to hear more about these cultural differences I notice!

Getting Around

Edinburgh is such a walkable city that you likely won’t need a vehicle unless you plan to use it as a base to explore other areas of Scotland. It is, however, a hilly city, so be prepared for some steep sections or stairs along the way.

If you need a break from walking or have some further distances to cover, you can also take the Lothian Buses. You can board these and tap to pay at the door or download the CityTransport App for mobile tickets. You can also use Taxi and Uber/ride-share services.

Other Recommendations

Looking for other experiences, places to shop, or somewhere good to eat? Here are a few things I’d recommend.

Bonnie and Wild Food Hall

We traveled in a group of 10 on one of our trips, so finding places to eat with enough space for all of us wasn’t always easy on a whim. I’d heard a lot about Bonnie and Wild on social media and thought it seemed like a great place that not only accommodates all of us, but also makes everyone happy with a variety of food options.

Bonnie and Wild is a marketplace and food hall in St. James’ Quarter with over a dozen dining options. Choices range from cafes, pizza, Asian fare, sandwiches, fried chicken, acai bowls, burgers, gelato, and pastries. There are also three bars on site.

We enjoyed everything we tried and had a good time tasting one another’s plates to sample a bit of everything. Some of us even returned another day! If you’re looking for something different from the usual sit-down restaurant or pub fare, or if you have a family that can’t agree on what to eat, Bonnie and Wild is the perfect place to visit.

Rabbie’s Tours

During our first visit to Edinburgh, we decided to head out of the city for the day on a tour. We did an Outlander day tour with Rabbie’s Tours, and I’d highly recommend using them. Rabbie’s offers a large selection of small coach tours to tickle anyone’s fancy if Outlander isn’t your particular cup of tea.

I liked that it was a small coach tour, so it felt more intimate rather than one of those big tour buses herding people in and out. We had two tour guides who were wonderful and informative (One of whom dressed up in full Jamie Fraser regalia to fit the theme). Being in a small space made the travel time part of the fun, because everyone asked the guides questions and we received a lot of stories and information that we would have missed out on being on our own.

Mr. Whippy Van

This is the one I was telling you about below Arthur’s Seat. If you see it, do yourself a favor and grab some. We had a lot of ice cream on my trip, and this was my favorite! It was so smooth and delicious that I didn’t even mind that I was cold and wet when eating it.

Cockburn Street

Cockburn Street connects High Street on the Royal Mile to Waverly Bridge and Train Station. It is full of boutique shops and cafes, as well as the famous Mary’s Milk Bar, which often has a line out the door. I’ve yet to try Mary’s Milk Bar, but we did pop into the shops on Cockburn Street. They were all unique and worth going into to look around.

My favorites were Pie in the Sky and W. Armstrong & Son Vintage Clothing Emporium. I even left with a vintage top to (somehow) squeeze into my luggage and take back home.

What I’d Still Like to Experience in Edinburgh

Even though I’ve been twice now, there are still some things I’d like to check off my Edinburgh Bucket List. I’m sure I’ll be back one day, and I hope to see the following:

• National Museum
• Prince’s Street Gardens
• The Royal Botanic Garden
• Surgeons’ Hall Museums

Is there anything I’m missing that you think is a must-see in the city or a unique experience?

Have You Ever Visited Edinburgh?

Overall, Edinburgh is a one-of-a-kind city worth a stop while visiting Scotland. For many, it’s a place to rest after a long flight before seeing more of the country, but if you have the time, the city has a lot to offer that’s easy to fit into a couple of days. Sure, you will face the usual tourist crowds and shops you find in any popular city, particularly along the Royal Mile. But in the evenings, when all has quieted down, and the moody street lamps cast a glow on the cobbled streets and historic buildings, you’ll feel that Edinburgh charm.

Have you ever been to Edinburgh? How long did you stay, and where did you stay while you were there? What is your favorite part of the city?